All About Looks

All About Looks was an awesome "field trip" during class. This fabric store had unique variety of fabrics, accessories, and drapery hardware. Although this trip was meant for learning purposes, it was like a playground in this store to me!

This mother daughter team taught many different things about all kinds of fabrics and their uses and also about the fibers that make up these fabrics. While this store carries higher end fabrics, they could still point out all of the different fibers and what their appropriate uses were for. For instance, the Ralph Lauren burlap fabric they showed us was absolutely gorgeous although very expensive. This fabric would not be appropriate upholstered on a chair however. As they were talking about wallpapers coming back in style I was very intrigued by the wallpaper which could be painted on and had designs in the texture. That was really cool and I had yet to see that before. Another very interesting fabric they showed was the fabrics made out of reusable items such as the fabric made from old tarps and also the fabric made from cork. Both of these materials had a very interesting and unique texture and look to it that could really add to an interior.

Another thing that was very interesting during this trip was getting to see how they upholster old furniture. I never thought about how older furniture is actually of better quality because it is made with hard wood instead of more modern furniture which is made with cheaper materials until they pointed this out. Refinishing older furniture is something that I am very interested in so I loved getting to see it in action!

All About Looks was a very valuable learning experience because I not only got to learn about different fabrics and applications, but I also got to learn about how designers work together with upholsterers and fabric stores.

Martindale Abrasion Tester

To determine the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics, or the wear ability of textile fabrics, a device called the Martindale Abrasion Tester is used. Most and all fabric types may be used on the Martindale Abrasion Tester but fabrics with a pile depth greater than 0.08 inches may give the Martindale Abrasion Tester some difficulty. The device measures abrasion resistance by subjecting the fabric to a rubbing motion in the form of a straight line which eventually becomes an eclipse until it forms another straight line in the opposite direction and then continues to trace the same figure again under preset conditions of pressure and abrasive action.

Plain weave, crossbred, or worsted wool fabric is used for the abrasion along with a felt fabric and the two selected fabrics are what's used on the abrading table and both are cute to a 140 mm diameter. To ensure that the fabrics are completely flat with no creases, the felt is place first on top and central to each abrading table then the abrasive cloth is placed over the felt in the same manner. Next, the pressing weight is placed on to of the abrasive cloth, and then the clamp rings is locked into place and placed over the weight at the same time.

In order to test a fabric for abrasion, the fabric must measure 38 mm in diameter and a fabric of polyether urethane foam is cut to the same size as well. This polyether urethane foam must be used to back any fabric which is 500 g/m squared and is replaced after each test is conducted. This foam and the fabric which is being tested are then placed in the sample holder. The fabric holder is then replaced and tightened and then placed on each of the abrading tables. The weight being used is then selected appropriately for the type of test being performed. While operating the Martindale Abrasion Tester can be programmed to allow a certain number of rubs required. The machine can also be stopped anytime manually as well.

During this test abrasion can occur as any one of the three: when two or more yarns have broken or on a knitted fabric when a hole appears, a change in shade or appearance that is sufficient to evoke a customer complaint, and lastly a mass loss occurs after the abrasion in the fabric. The Martindale Abrasion Tester is used to test the abrasion resistance and wear ability of any certain fabric. It also test to make sure that there will not a be a future complaint from a customer that possesses a certain fabric from any of the three previously stated abrasions which can occur.

Fibers

Ever wonder what the fabric you are touching is made of?  Well, the answer you’re looking for would be fibers. Fibers are componets of different chemical makeup which are spun into what are called yarns that make up the most basic building block of all fabrics. Of course, each fiber has its own unique properties, strenghts, and weaknesses which make them more or less suitable for certain uses. There are different categories and subcategories of fibers which help determine what that fiber’s most appropriate use would be.

            The are two basic groups of fibers: natural fibers and man made fibers. Natural fibers can be defined as fibrous materials that exist in plants, animal products, and minerals. These fibers are also biodegradable and are considered a sustainable, enviromentally responsible material choice. To break down natural fibers even more, you can divide them into two more subcategories of plant or cellulosic fibers and protein fibers. Cellulosic fibers include materials such as cotton and linen. Protein fibers, such as wool and silk are going to come from animals such as sheep and silk worms.  On the not sonatural side, man made fibers are artifically created for use in fabric. Like natural fibers, man made fibers can also be subdivided into two groups: natural man made fibers and man made synthetic fibers. Natural man made fibers include materials such as glass, late, asbestos, and rayon. Man made synthetic fibers are normally classified as generic or branded and include nylon, polyester, and acetate.            

            Classifying fibers even more, the way each fiber is produced  and certain characterisitcs of a fiber can also categorize fibers. Filament fibers are produced in a continuous form which creates a smooth character. For the most part, all synthetics are produced as filament fibers. Staple fibers on the other hand are naturally produced in cut lenghts that vary from plant to plant or animal to animal. The lengthof the staple affects the material’s quality, appearance, and performance.  Other qualities of fiber’s can affect the different uses of a fiber such as thermoplastic fibers which softenwhen heated and harden when cooled. Thermoset fibers however harden when heated and cannot be manipulated like thermoplastic fibers. Another characteristic of fibers can be the way they react to water. Hydrophobic fibers repel water while hydrophilic fibers can readily absorb water.

            Fibers are the basic building blocks of all materials. Fibers themselves however are not so basic. They come in many different categories and subcategories with many different characteristics that help determine if that fiber is appropriate for use in a certain material.